Four Books for Foodies

by Barbara Hoffert | December 21, 2015

Behr, Edward. The Food and Wine of France: Eating and Drinking from Champagne to Provence. Penguin Pr. Jun. 2016. 352p. ISBN 9781594204524. $28; ebk. ISBN 9780399564024. COOKING
Most people think French food and wine are the world’s best, but what does best mean? Behr, an important food writer who founded the food magazine The Art of Eating, travels the hexagon from Champagne to Provence as he discusses the continuing high level of work done by French artisans and chefs. In case you, too, love croissants, chèvre, and Coquilles Saint Jacques.

Hazan, Marcella & Victor Hazan. Ingredienti: Marcella’s Guide to the Market. Scribner. Jun. 2106. 224p. ISBN 9781451627367. $20; ebk. ISBN 9781451627374. COOKING
Alas, we lost Marcella Hazan—famously, the “godmother of Italian cooking”—in 2013. But we haven’t lost the handwritten notebooks in which she detailed her thoughts on picking the bestingredients, and as any good cook will tell you, it’s the ingredients that make the dish. By transcribing these notebooks, Victor Hazan, Marcella’s husband and longtime collaborator, gives us the best tips imaginable on everything from artichokes to olive oil to salumi

Kuh, Patric. Finding the Flavors We Lost: From Bread to Bourbon, How Artisans Reclaimed American Food. Ecco. Jun. 2106. 320p. ISBN 9780062219541. $26.95; ebk. ISBN 9780062219565. AGRICULTURE/FOOD
The James Beard Award–winning restaurant critic for Los Angeles Magazine has quite a lot to say about America’s artisanal food movement, starting with the countercultural types who rescued basics like bread, cheese, and beer-making from mass-produced food, then spread the gospel of “handcrafted” food as if it were soft, soft butter. How had agribusiness ever managed to take over? And are artisanal foods a class divider, affordable only to the well heeled? With a 30,000-copy first printing.

Yalof, Ina. Food and the City: New York’s Professional Chefs, Restaurateurs, Line Cooks, Street Vendors, and Purveyors Talk About What They Do and Why They Do It. Putnam. Jun. 2106. ISBN 9780399168925. $28; ebk. ISBN 9780698152809. COOKING
Lenny Berk recalls slicing lox for Woody Allen’s mother at Zabar’s. Ghaya Oliveira started out as a stockbroker from Tunisia but switched careers and climbed the ladder from dishwasher to executive pastry chef at Daniel. If you don’t know Zabar’s and Daniel, you might not appreciate this book, but plenty of readers will be hungry for Yalof’s account of the chefs, line cooks, restaurateurs, waiters, and street vendors who make New York cooking great. Bushels of big names here.