The Feed: Tales of City Chefs
Ina Yalof’s new book, ‘Food and the City,’ plus Stephen Starr’s Le Coucou to open
By CHARLES PASSY
Kay Ch’ien this week is opening Hey Hey Canteen, a Hong Kong-inspired restaurant she has billed as a place for “elevated comfort food.”
Located in Brooklyn’s Park Slope, it features spins on Chinese-takeout classics like sesame peanut noodles, roast pork lo mein and wonton noodle soup, with an emphasis on high-quality ingredients ($9.99 to $16.99, not including add-ons or sides). Cocktails are also available.
Hey Hey Canteen, 400 Fourth Ave., Brooklyn; heyheycanteen.com
Le Coucou to Open
Veteran restaurateur Stephen Starr (Buddakan, Morimoto) is opening his latest project in Soho next week: Le Coucou.
The restaurant, part of the 11 Howard hotel, will showcase the Parisian chef Daniel Rose. Menu highlights range from pig’s feet with caviar to a farm egg cooked with cream, fresh peas and ramps. The restaurant has a 600-bottle wine list.
Mr. Rose’s Parisian establishments include Spring and La Bourse et La Vie. Although Mr. Rose is from Chicago, Le Coucou marks the first time he has cooked professionally in the U.S.
Le Coucou, 138 Lafayette St.; lecoucou.com
Ina Yalof’s new book ‘Food and the City’ PHOTO:COURTESY G.F. PUTNAM'S SON
Tales of City Chefs
There may be 8 million stories in the naked city, but for Ina Yalof, the most interesting ones revolve around food.
Her new book, “Food and the City” ( G.P. Putnam’s Sons, $28), looks at more than 50 New York culinary personalities, profiling such high-profile restaurateurs and proprietors asEd Schoenfeld of RedFarm, Alexander Smallsof the Cecil and Cronut creator Dominique Ansel.
Ms. Yalof also includes behind-the-scenes and lesser-known names, such as Le Bernardin fish “butcher” Justo Thomas, Staten Island firehouse cook JoJo Esposito and New York City Department of Correction food-service chief Paulette Johnson.
The common thread among these food professionals? “They have guts, perseverance and, above all, a passion for food,” said Ms. Yalof, who moved to New York in 2012 after living in Vermont.
Among the many personalities in the book, Ms. Yalof said she was particularly fascinated by Ms. Johnson, who is responsible for the 47,000 meals served to prisoners at Rikers Island and other corrections facilities.
“She’s this very small Jamaican woman who just figured how to pull it off,” said Ms. Yalof.
In support of “Food and the City,” Ms. Yalof will be holding a Wednesday 7 p.m. talk at the 92nd Street Y (1395 Lexington Ave.).Harlem Shake owner Jelena Pasic and Betony executive chef Bryce Shuman, both of whom are profiled in the book, will also speak. Tickets are $32.